Fragrance is associated with beauty smell with ugliness, yet both are
odours. Fragrance and aroma is nature’s way of warning us of possible danger?
Smells unpleasant odours, come from rotting vegetation of animal matter, both
of which are likely to be toxic, whereas fragrance is mostly given off by
beautiful parts of plants. Of course there are exceptions to these
generalizations there are some flowers which smell exactly like decaying meat,
and unmentionable animal parts which supply prized perfumes.
Historical uses of Fragrance and
Aroma!
But it does seem that fragrance and aroma is associated with pleasure
and for health, and it is a pity that sweet smelling perfumes are not now in
everyday use in the home, as they were in the past. The Romans great sybarites
that they were had perfumed doves flying above banquets; they scattered tons of
rose petals on festival days, and sprayed their rooms with perfume as
effeminate and made its sale illegal.
The Greeks thought perfume was divine in origin, and the ancient
Egyptian who originally confined the use of perfume to religious rituals,
gradually allowed its personal use until it became an essential part of the
toilet. From Rome its use spread throughout northern and western Europe to
Britain, and thence eventually to the new world in 16th and 17th
centuries by the first settlers. There it must have met the long-standing
tradition of herbal medicine practiced by the Indian tribes already
established, who would have appreciated the therapeutic use of aromatic oils.
In mediaeval times in Britain, and even more so in Europe aromatic and
fragrant herbs had a hundreds everyday uses. One has a vague impression that
those times and later, perhaps up to the
end of the 18th century, were distinguished by a general lack of
hygiene; dirt, smells, fleas, sores, boils and skin complaints in general were
common place things. Yet in fact people had a good deal of natural material available
to overcome all these. For most people life was a rural one, and many families
probably had a little bit of ground outside their homes on which to grow
plants. For those that had not, there were many herbs which were native plants
growing wild and in much greater quantity than they do now.
It would have been a common habit to strew aromatic and fragrant leaves
on floors to combat insects, to use them in all one’s clothes and household
linen, and to burn sprigs of such plants in various rooms to offset unpleasant
odours, or simply to provide a sweet
fragrance. Finger bowls contained flower petals, gloves were perfumed,
pomanders and tussie mussies were carried, and scented candles burnt. Lavender
was used in washing water and potpourris were an essential part of everyday
life. Furniture polish was perfumed.
Perfume as such consisted at first of the simple natural oils. Such as
rosemary, sage and lavender but those with an alcoholic base began to make
their appearance in the 14th century with the production of Hungary
Water. It is of note that a writer of 1560, described an English home thus; the
neat cleanliness the pleasant and delightful furniture, wonderfully rejoiced
me, their chambers and parlors strewed over with sweet herbs, refreshed me.
Gerard described meadowsweet as far excelling All other strewing herbs to
decked up houses, to straw in chambers, halls and banqueting houses in the
Summer time; for the smell thereof makes the heart merries, delighted the
senses.
It would do no harm, and probably a great deal of good, to follow some
of these practices, in scenting our homes or parts of them; it might even be
possible to use them in the same way
that color is to create a certain mood for instance, for soothing and tranquillizing
in resting rooms, for stimulating in living rooms, and for making the
heart merry at dinner parties.
How Do we get Fragrances and Aroma!
Odours of any kind are detected by a small piece of lining membrane at
the top of the nose cavity. On the surface of this there are olfactory hairs
which connect with a nerve fiber ultimately in contact with the central nervous
systems. If these filaments are covered with a thicker layer of mucous fluid
than normal as with catarrh, or if this layer is replaced with a dry one, the
ability to distinguish between smells is reduced or even temporarily destroyed.
Different reactions to smells and perfumes, when some people cannot
detect any odour, and others different is probably due to one’s genes, though
smoking can interfere, and prolonged sniffing blunts the ability. Incidentally
the Latin for to smoke is fumere; par or per means through perhaps perfumes is
so called because herbs were burnt for various reasons. Fragrant originally
meant simply smelling and its meaning of sweetness is a modern one. There are
said to be only seven primary odours ethereal, camphoraceous, musky, floral
peppermints, pungent and putrid, and all other odours are compounds of these;
almond, for example is a mixture of floral, camphoraceous and peppermints
ingredients.
Methods of Extracting Perfume!
The art of perfumery is extremely complex, and the professional
perfumer has literally thousands of sources of fragrance and aroma, which to
call when blending a new perfume. In general, perfumes are based on a solvent
such as oil or pure alcohol and it is possible in spite of the potential for
complexity, to make one’s own perfumes based on the flowers and or leaves of herbs
in the same way that potpourris can be satisfactorily made. Pure alcohol is
usually not obtainable but a good substitute is isopropyl alcohol, and for oil,
and vegetable oil can be used, though olive or sweet almond will give a better
product. They will keep longer if 10% of wheat germ oil can be added after
infusing.
There are four main methods of extracting the perfume or more
precisely the essential oil which
contains the perfume or aroma of a plant; distillation, extraction with alcohol
or volatile solvent, maceration and enfleurage. A 5th is expression,
used largely on fruit, in which considerable pressure is exerted to squeeze out
the oil. For perfumes made at home, maceration and enflueurage are the most
practicable methods to try out.
Maceration in effect is the way in which attar of roses is said to have
been discovered. The story is that Persian princess and her bridegroom were
rowing on a lake after the wedding in which rose petals had been prodigally
used, and the surface of the lake became covered with them. The princess,
trailing her hands in the water, discovered that they were covered in sweet
smelling oil, and so the method and the perfume were born. At home, it is
simply a case of steeping fresh flower petals or other scented material in water,
topping up with new material until sufficient oil is obtained, and then
extracting it with isopropyl alcohol.
Enfleurage involves the use of fat applied to perfectly clean sheets of
glass. Each sheet is held in a wooden frame, of any convenient size, and fat or
grease spread over each surface. The flowers or other scented material are
pressed into the fat, without the stems, and left in a dark place for 24 hours,
when fresh flowers are used to replace the old. This continues until the
flowers are no longer available. In this way the fat absorbs the perfumed oil
and then becomes pomade; the oil can be extracted with alcohol.
Alternatively olive oil can be used, placing it in a bottle and filling
the bottle with the scented material. After 24 hours in a warm dark place, the
flowers and oil should be strained through a net or muslin (cheesecloth) bag
and the resultant oil, now slightly perfumed placed in a second bottle and
again filled with flowers. This can be repeated until there are no more flowers
available. Then an equal quantity of isopropyl alcohol is added and the mixture
shaken together thoroughly every day for three to four weeks. The alcohol will
then extract the essential oil and be perfumed. However, the now perfumed olive
oil can be left as it is and used as an after bath oil. Rose’s lavender,
honeysuckle, clove pinks and wall flowers can all be tried for perfume.
For aromatic oils for cooking, rosemary tarragon, marjoram, sage and
thyme can also be soaked in the oil, using complete sprigs. Use freshly dried
material in this case, to avoid cloudy oil, and again keep it warm hot the
higher the temperature, the quicker will the extraction occurs.
Potpourris and how to make
them?
The art of potpourri making became sadly lost until recently, but with
the renewal of interest in herbs and all things herbal, many of the old recipes
are being revived together with detailed directions for preparing the contents
and putting them together. The word potpourri literally means rotten pot and is
derived from the French pot and pourrir, to rot. Originally such a mixture contained what were regarded as disinfectant herbs;
rosemary, lavender, sage, southernwood and they were mixed with spices oils and
fixatives, and left in a closed container to mature or rot into moist mixture, strongly aromatic and long lasting. Later, perfumed material
became popular and gradually replaced the original formulae.
Potpourris now basically consist of the material to be used, whether it
is flowers or leaves to which spices and fixatives are added, and sometimes
also essential oils. The spices may be such seeds, fruits roots etc., as
coriander, caraway, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg or ginger; fixatives include orris
root, sweet flag root calamus sandalwood, common salt or bay salt that is sea
salt, and the essential oils can be any extracted from perfumed flowers, from
the aromatic herbs and citrus fruits and
from the fragrant timbers.
Dry Potpourris!
The dry version of potpourri is the one most often made at home or
available in stores and is easier to make as well as being visually more
attractive than the moist kin which however, lasts longer and is stronger and
more penetrating. Dry potpourri consists of petals and leaves dried in the same
way that culinary herbs are, and collected at the same time of day and in the
same condition. Darkness is especially important to preserve the color of the
flowers. The material should be crisp but not powdery when finally ready, and
may take a day or a week or longer to reach the right stage. It can be added to
as the season goes on.
All are mixed together in, preferably a glazed earthenware container or
at any rate not a metal one, the spices then added and also thoroughly
mixed in, and then the essential oil,
drop by drop, depending on the fragrance
achieved already. A dry potpourri relies in the last analysis on the added
spices and oils for the strngthand lasting qualities of are fragrance. The
spices should be ground up very finely, and for this a pepper mill, coffee grinder
or heavy pestle and mortar are suitable. For the oil, use a syringe or
eye-dropper.
Moist Potpourris!
Moist potpourri uses petals and leaves which are only part-dried, so
that they are slightly flabby and limp, a little bit like moist chamois
leather. The drying method is the same, but stops much sooner you may need to
examine the material more frequently to prevent it from drying too much. It
takes longer to complete, as several months are required for maturation. Quite
a lot of salt will be needed, in what proportion of 3 parts petals and leaves
to 1 of salt. Put a layer of petals an inch thick in the bottom of the
container, and then cover with the salt sprinkled evenly all over it and firmed
down, and repeat these two layers until all the current supply of material is
used up. Moreover keep the layers pressed down hard and weighted well, and
continue to add salt and flowers as they become available, stirring the
material already in the container thoroughly before adding the new.
If liquid appears at the bottom of the container, drain it off and use I
in the bath, and if frothing occurs, stir the mix to absorb it. When the
container is full, there will be a sacked mass of petals and leaves. Break this
up with a fork and then add to it a mixture of species and a mixture made up separately
of dried herbs and citrus peel, sprinkling all over the potpourri and blending
them thoroughly and gradually. At this stage the mix will be strongly aromatic
and a drop or two of essential oil of your choice may be necessary, but often
no further additions are required.
The final mix is then returned to the container, tightly pressed down
and the container covered mainly to keep out dust, but it should not be
airtight. After about six weeks the finally matured perfume will be apparent,
and will then last for years. It is usually kept in a closed jar and opened
when the fragrance is required to scent to room.
Fragrant Gifts!
Recipes for potpourris fragrant and aromatic oils, and culinary
vinegars will be found in the descriptive list of herbs but in addition to
these, the following make delightful gifts and are easily made..
1.
Orange
Pomander! Use a thin skinned orange, and make a narrow slit in the skin round the circumference, removing
about 6 mm width, then make another at right angles to this, so that the orange
is marked in quarters. Put the orange in a warm place for a day or two to dry
out, and then push whole cloves into it closely enough to ensure that the heads
are virtually touching. Use a thin knitting needle to make holes if the orange
is tough. When the whole orange is covered, roll it in a mixture of powdered
orris root alone, or a mixture with
spices of your choice, such as cinnamon, ginger, mixed spice etc. and then wrap
it up for two weeks and store in the dark. Take of the wrapping tie colored
ribbon round the orange over the cut sections and use for hanging in cupboard
or wardrobe.
2.
Scented
Sachets! For these, use lavender or the dried version of potpourri or make up
your own mixtures of aromatic herbs depending on whether you want them for fragrance
or for warding off moths and other insects from clothes and household linen.
Lavender should be cut just before the
flowers are fully open, and hung upside down for a few days to dry, then
rubbed down to remove the flowers. Used alone it is a pungent fragrance, long
lasting and pervading. Insect repellent mixtures can contain any of the
following costmary, southernwood tansy, rue, and rosemary, mint all cursed, and
powered cloves in whatever combination you prefer. Make up the small bags to
contain them from muslin (Cheesecloth) or nylon net or any thin material in
pretty designs, pack them fairly tight, and finish with ribbons or cords. They
should remain effective for one to two years.
3.
Tussie
Mussie! This is a tiny bunch or nosegay of fragrant flowers and herbs,
principally used in mediaeval times for carrying in the hand and warding off
unpleasant smells and infection from plague and other diseases. The formal Victorian
posies were a derivation, but by then were merely a pretty conceit to provide
decoration and perfume. As a modern gift they can be made up, suing small,
perfect blooms, fresh leaves, with perhaps a rose bud or pink as the centre,
and the outside finished off with a white paper doily and secured with ribbon. It
should be as neat a formal as possible, with blooms arranged in concentric
circles, interleaved with folilage. Diameter should be about 6.7 cm.
